DIY ENTRYWAY DROP ZONE -Part Two
Welcome Bougies to part 2 of the DIY Entryway Drop Zone where you’ll find the complete how-to instructions. For reference, you can find Part 1 and the supply list here.
Step One
Step Two
Next, I attached the bottom board to the wall, in my case that was the 1 x3″ board. Assuming your entry wall does not abut a staircase you can use the 1 x 4″ board alongside the bottom.
To attach your boards to the wall you will first need to liberally apply Liquid Nails to the board that’s being applied to the wall. Then nail the board in using a Brad Nailer (Pneumatic or Cordless) and 1 – 1/4 inch brad nails.
Use a stud finder to determine the placement of the studs in your wall. You’ll want to nail your boards directly into the studs whenever possible.
Before attaching the boards please be sure to use your level to ensure that all your boards are straight and level from top to bottom. This will save you a lot of head-banging and needless frustration.
Step Three
You’ll next want to start attaching your (4) vertical longboards from the wall corner to the outside, ensuring they are equal distances from one another to compliment your grid structure. ( Note: This would have also been done in your planning and drawing stage).
Once you’ve ensured your vertical boards are attached and level, you’ll want to attach the top longboard, which will run horizontally and level to your vertical boards so that they abut perfectly and are level. This is an important step as you’ll want to ensure the level placement of your shelf.
Step Four
Next, attach the corresponding short boards with the Liquid Nails and Brad Nailer between the vertical boards to complete the column grid. Note: Before you cut your short boards, please be sure that you have measured at least twice and that number is consistent. You want a tight level fit between each board. If you measured correctly you shouldn’t have any big gaps.
Once that has been completed go back and use the wood filler along all the cuts to make a seamless transition. Be sure to sand and smooth out your filler, either with a hand sander or an oscillating multi-tool that has a sander attachment.
Additonal Info: If you pay particular attention you can see the outline was done in pencil.
Fun fact: 1 x 4 boards aren’t actually 1 inch by 4 inches. The actual common measurements are 3/4″ x 3 1/2″. This is a good fact to know when planning out your measurements.
draw out the molding grid placement that I wanted for the look of the wall. For this particular project, I knew I wanted to extend the molding through the adjoining staircase, so the bottom board was 1″ x 3″ which sat adjacent to the staircase riser as well as atop the baseboard.
Pro Tip: If you have decided to use lumber be sure to sand your boards prior to attaching them to the wall. It is also very useful to keep a wet rag or sponge and clean water handy to wipe away any excess adhesive or molding caulk. In addition to having it handy for wood filler smoothing and cleanup.
Take Note
Step 2 Caveat: All of your boards should be straight cuts with a miter saw or saw that you have on hand. you may notice a 45-degree cut on the bottom of the outside vertical board this was only done to accommodate the staircase riser.
Step 3 Caveat: As you may notice in the picture above, I did not use a horizontal longboard at the top to accommodate the window. Instead, the top horizontal board was cut to abut the interior of the vertical longboards.
Check out the preview of the Staircase molding. The tutorial coming soon!
Step Five
Once your molding has been sanded, cleaned, and in place, the next step is to paint. I highly recommend not skimping on the paint. You’ll want quality white paint for wood or trim that isn’t necessarily prone to peeling and chipping. Once the paint has dried you’re ready to attach your choice of wall hooks to the 1 x 4 boards.
After you’ve completed the hooks you’ll want to attach your (4) corbels to the (4) vertical longboards making sure the top of your corbels are level with the top of the horizontal boards. This is important as this is how your shelf will be supported.
Step Six
Once your Corbels are attached, you’re ready for the final construction step. Attaching your 1″ x 8″ board, again using Liquid Nails and either 1-1/2″ wood screws and a Brad nailer to the top of your corbel flat surface. Repeat the previous steps of using the wood filler, sanding, and painting your corbels and new shelf.
Step 7
If you’ve reached this step, you’re so close. Next, you’re in the process of making this pretty. You may notice along the way, your wall may have gotten knocked a bit, and that is where wall repair and sander come in handy. Finally a fresh coat of white paint seals the deal.
The Finale
The final step in the process is caulking the areas between the wall and your molding boards. For this step, I highly recommend using this molding and trim caulk sealant.
Enjoy Bougies!
